Latok peak I,II,III,IV



Overview
Latok I, II, III, IV – A Legendary Climbing Challenge
The Latok I Peak is a formidable mix of ice and rock climbing, making it one of the most challenging ascents in the Karakoram. Many faces of the Latok Peaks remain unclimbed, offering an exciting opportunity for adventure seekers to pioneer first ascents.
Located in the Panmah Muztagh sub-range of the Pakistani Karakoram, the Latok group consists of four major peaks:
- Latok I: 7,145 meters
- Latok II: 7,108 meters
- Latok III: 6,949 meters
- Latok IV: 6,456 meters
The Big Wall Phenomenon
- Latok I is recognized as one of the world’s great big walls—steep rock faces with over 70° incline and more than a kilometer of vertical gain.
- Among only 20 true big walls globally, Latok I stands as one of the most elite and technically demanding high-altitude objectives.
Historical Attempts & Ascents
- 1978: The first serious attempt on the North Ridge of Latok I was made by an American team—Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. They came within 150 meters of the summit before turning back due to bad weather and exhaustion. This remains one of the most iconic unfinished climbs in history.
- 1979: A Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada achieved the first successful ascent of Latok I via the East Side, marking a major milestone in Himalayan climbing history.
The 2018 Breakthrough: A 40-Year Barrier
After nearly 40 years and over 30 failed attempts, a major breakthrough came in August 2018, when a new international team reached the summit of Latok I via a partial North Ridge and West Side traverse.
- Aleš Česen (Slovenia, 36)
- Luka Stražar (Slovenia, 29)
- Tom Livingstone (UK, 27)
The team ascended most of the North Ridge, then traversed to the West Side to summit via the original 1979 Japanese route. Their successful climb marked:
- The second-ever ascent of Latok I.
- A historic achievement in modern alpinism.
Note: The upper section of the North Ridge remains unclimbed, preserving one of the last great challenges in the world of big-wall alpine climbing.
Expedition Highlights
- Stunning Trek: Journey through the spectacular Baltoro and Panmah Glacier regions.
- World-Class Logistics: Supported by experienced local teams and first-class expedition services.
- Big Wall Climbing: Confront one of the most technical and legendary alpine walls in the world.
- Remote Exploration: Access untouched valleys and rarely climbed faces in the heart of the Karakoram.
- Cultural Immersion: Experience the rich traditions and hospitality of Skardu and Baltistan.
DAYS | ITINERARY | SEE LEVEL | RESIDENCE |
---|---|---|---|
01 | Arrive at Islamabad International Airport, transfer to hotel, and rest. | — | Hotel |
02 | Fly to Skardu via PK-451 (subject to weather) or drive via Karakoram Highway (KKH) / Naran Valley to Chilas (12-14 hrs). | — | Hotel |
03 | Sightseeing in Skardu or drive from Chilas to Skardu (8-9 hrs). | 2,250m | Hotel |
04 | Expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, Skardu. Final preparation with the team and equipment check. | 2,250m | Hotel |
05 | Drive from Skardu to Askoli, the last village before trekking begins (6-7 hrs). | 3,000m | Camping |
06 | Trek from Askoli to Upper Jhola (Chanchikon) (5-6 hrs). | 3,200m | Camping |
07 | Trek from Chanchikon to Donglonba (6-7 hrs). | 3,800m | Camping |
08 | Trek from Donglonba to Lamidokpa (5-6 hrs). | 4,300m | Camping |
09 | Trek from Lamidokpa to Latok I, II, III & IV Base Camp (5-7 hrs). | 4,800m | Camping |
10-27 | Climbing Period (17 Days) – Attempting ascents on Latok I, II, III, and IV. | 4,800m+ | Camping |
28 | Trek down from Latok Base Camp to Lamidokpa (6-7 hrs). | 4,300m | Camping |
29 | Trek down from Lamidokpa to Upper Jhola (Chanchikon) (6-7 hrs). | 3,200m | Camping |
30 | Trek down from Chanchikon to Askoli (5-6 hrs). | 3,000m | Camping |
31 | Drive from Askoli to Skardu (6-7 hrs). | 2,250m | Hotel |
32 | Debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism, Skardu, and farewell dinner with the expedition team. | 2,250m | Hotel |
33 | Fly to Islamabad (weather-dependent) or drive from Skardu to Chilas (8-9 hrs). | 1,200m | Hotel |
34 | Sightseeing in Islamabad or drive from Chilas to Islamabad (12-14 hrs). | 500m | Hotel |
35 | Transfer to the airport for international departure. End of services. | — | Fly Out |
Services Included
- Airport Transfers:
- Pick-up and drop-off at Islamabad International Airport upon arrival and departure.
- Domestic Flights:
- Round-trip airfare between Islamabad and Skardu (subject to weather conditions).
- Transportation Services:
- Briefing, debriefing, and sightseeing transportation in Islamabad and Skardu.
- Ground transportation between Skardu and Hushe (both ways) for the expedition.
- Accommodation:
- Islamabad: 3 nights in a twin-bed room with bed & breakfast.
- Skardu: 3 nights in a hotel with full board (all meals included).
- Chilas: 2 nights in a hotel with full board (all meals included).
- Support Staff & Logistics:
- Wages, insurance, food, and equipment for local staff.
- Low-altitude porters to transport expedition and trekking equipment.
- Expedition Load Transport:
- Up to 75kg per climbing member on the way to Base Camp.
- Up to 50kg per climbing member on the return journey from Base Camp.
- Meals & Camping Equipment:
- All trekking and base camp meals during the expedition.
- High-quality camping gear including:
- Comfortable member tents
- Mess tent, kitchen tent, storage tent, office tent, and toilet tent
- Tables, chairs, and kitchen utensils
- Flight Ticket Assistance:
- Help with reconfirmation of international flight tickets before departure.
- Permits & Fees:
- Climbing permit and documentation handling.
- CKNP (Central Karakoram National Park) West Management Fee.
- Government Royalty Fee & Additional Member Fee.
- Liaison Officer Support:
- Liaison officer's kit allowance, food, and domestic flight fare.
- Administrative Fees:
- All camping fees, road taxes, and bridge crossing fees.
- Provision of low-altitude porters’ equipment.
Services Not Included
- International Flights:
- Members must book their own airfare to and from Pakistan.
- Helicopter Emergency Rescue:
- Refundable if not used (current cost: USD $15,000).
- Climbing Gear:
- Personal technical climbing equipment is not provided.
- Personal Insurance:
- Members must have their own insurance coverage.
- High-Altitude Tents:
- Personal high-altitude tents are not included.
- High-Altitude Food:
- Specialized food for high-altitude climbing is not provided.
- High-Altitude Porters:
- Porters above base camp must be arranged separately.
- Personal Expenses:
- Includes:
- Sleeping bag
- Telephone calls, fax, and email charges
- Alcoholic beverages and soft drinks
- Includes:
- Hotel Extras:
- Room service, gratuities, and personal expenses at hotels.
- Custom Clearance:
- Charges for importing or exporting expedition equipment.
- Specialized Equipment:
- EPI gas and oxygen cylinders are not included.
- Unforeseen Expenses:
- Extra costs due to roadblocks, additional hotel stays, or prolonged base camp stays must be covered by the members.
- Group Splits:
- If any member separates from the group during the expedition, additional expenses will be charged according to standard rates.
This comprehensive package ensures a well-supported expedition, while personal and high-altitude climbing requirements remain the responsibility of each participant.
🔹 Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Shoes: High-performance shoes designed for rock climbing, providing grip and precision on challenging surfaces.
- Crash Pad: A thick, durable foam pad used for bouldering to cushion falls and protect against injuries.
- Snacks: High-energy, lightweight snacks such as protein bars, nuts, dried fruits, and energy gels to sustain energy levels during climbs.
- Chalk Bag & Chalk: A small pouch to hold climbing chalk, which absorbs moisture and improves grip on rock surfaces.
- Harness: A secure, adjustable harness that distributes weight evenly and ensures safety while climbing.
- Locking Carabiner: A strong, auto-locking or screw-gate carabiner essential for securing ropes, belay devices, and climbing protection.
- Climbing Rope (10.5mm): A dynamic rope with a 10.5mm diameter, suitable for lead climbing, belaying, and rappelling.
- Rope Bag: A protective bag designed to store and transport climbing ropes while keeping them clean and tangle-free.
- Helmet: A lightweight, impact-resistant helmet to protect against falling debris and head injuries during climbing.
- Belay Device: A device used for controlling the rope during belaying, rappelling, or securing a climber’s fall.
🔹 Clothing & Personal Gear
- Mid-Weight Fleece Jacket: A warm, breathable fleece jacket that provides insulation in cold conditions.
- Rain Jacket: A waterproof and windproof jacket with breathable fabric to keep dry in wet conditions.
- Windproof Pants: Lightweight, durable pants designed to block wind and provide comfort in harsh weather conditions.
- Fleece Hat: A warm, insulating hat that retains heat and protects against cold temperatures.
- Running Shoes (Light Hiking Boots): Comfortable, lightweight shoes suitable for approach hikes and general trekking.
🔹 Accessories & Essentials
- Water Bottle: A durable, leak-proof bottle (1-2 liters) to stay hydrated during long treks and climbs.
- Sunglasses: High-quality, UV-protected sunglasses to shield eyes from intense sunlight and glare at high altitudes.
- Sunblock & Lip Balm: High SPF sunscreen and moisturizing lip balm to protect skin from sunburn and extreme dryness.
- Energy Snacks: Quick-access, nutrient-dense snacks such as chocolate, granola bars, and electrolyte gels to maintain stamina.
🔹 Final Thoughts
This list ensures climbers are well-equipped for the challenges of high-altitude climbing and trekking in the Karakoram.
Terms & Conditions
How to Book
We recommend booking well in advance by sending a non-refundable deposit of 25% Euro or USD and the tour price with a minimum deposit of 50% Euro or USD per person in advance. Some of the tours and ground arrangements may require a higher deposit of up to 80% with booking conditions. These details will be provided on confirmation of your booking. The deposit is required within 5 days of confirmation to hold your booking. The booking confirmation will include the exact deposit amount required and the due date of final payment. Please read these terms and conditions carefully and raise any questions you may have prior to making your booking. Receipt of deposit will be taken as an understanding by KARAKORUM GUIDES PAKISTAN that the customer has checked their confirmed travel arrangements and has read and agrees to abide by the terms and conditions. Any verbal quote given is an estimate only of the price which will be subject to advice on confirmation of the reservation, after which you will have 5 days to pay your nonrefundable deposit with 50% in advance tour price.
Price
Price we will give you after few discussion by e-mail or phone call. Should these costs change it may be necessary to make a surcharge on the price of your holiday which will be advised to you at the time you book. However no surcharge in respect to cost or currency fluctuations will be made to the arrangements of your holiday once full payment has been received by Karakorum Guides, unless any changes are made to your booking in accordance with these terms and conditions. This price guarantee does not apply to:
- (i) fares, charges or levies imposed by airlines up until ticketing
- (ii) any taxes, charges or levies imposed by any Government or their agencies and the banking transfer charges.
Amendments
One change per booking is permitted free of charge. Each subsequent change will incur a fee of 50 $ per amendment to cover extra administrative and communication costs. In addition, cancellation and/or amendment fees may also be imposed minimum of 500 $ or depending on the nature of the change. To the extent we are able to do so, we will advise you of all applicable cancellation and/or amendment charges at the time of confirmation of your booking. Separate conditions apply to air arrangements and are set out in Section 9 of these terms and conditions.
Late Bookings
A fee of 30 $ per booking will be levied for bookings made within 10 working days of departure from your home land. Any booking request made within 10 working days or within any relevant supplier’s cancellation period cannot be processed until full payment has been received by Karakorum Guides.
Land Only Service Charge
A $200 fee applies to land-only bookings for fewer than 2 nights of accommodation or 2 days of car rental.
Payments
We accept only bank transfers or cash. Card payments are not accepted.
Cancellations and Refunds
For Expeditions
If you decide to cancel your program or you are unable to travel, Karakorum Guides will refund the amount you have paid less (i) our reasonable costs and (ii) any cancellation fees imposed by other suppliers. It is likely that other suppliers’ cancellation fees (which we will pass on to you) will be greater when cancellation takes place closer to the departure date. If you notify us of cancellation more than 30 days before departure, then the cancellation charges are only 25% non-refundable deposit. If you notify us of cancellation less than 30 days before departure, the cancellation charges may be up to 50% of the total booking cost. Regrettably cancellation charges cannot be waived. No refunds are available for unused services after departure from your home land.
For Trekking/Tours
If you decide to cancel your program or you are unable to travel, Karakorum Guides will refund the amount you have paid less (i) our reasonable costs and (ii) any cancellation fees imposed by other suppliers. It is likely that other suppliers’ cancellation fees (which we will pass on to you) will be greater when cancellation takes place closer to the departure date. If you notify us of cancellation more than 15 days before departure, then the cancellation charges are only 25% of your deposit. If you notify us of cancellation less than 15 days before departure, the cancellation charges may be up to 50% of the total booking cost. Regrettably cancellation charges cannot be waived. No refunds are available for unused services after departure from your home land.
For Air Arrangements
Cancellation fees will apply as required by airlines regulations and will vary dependent upon the type of airfare utilized. Airfare prices and conditions are subject to change or withdrawal without notification until ticketed. Full payment is required before tickets can be issued. Karakorum Guides cannot be held liable for any increases in prices or changes in any airline regulations. Foreign currency airfares and airport taxes may fluctuate and are subject to the rate of exchange on date of ticket issue. Increases in airport taxes are not the responsibility of Karakorum Guides and can be imposed up to departure. To the extent we are able to do so we will advise you of any increases of which we are aware at the time of confirmation of your booking.
Consumer Claims
Should you encounter any problems on your holiday it is always better to try and solve it directly with the Tour Staff. If it is not possible to do so and you wish to lodge a complaint, please do so in writing within 30 days of completing your Karakorum Guides arrangements. These Terms and Conditions do not purport to exclude any statutory rights available to you and must in all cases be read subject to those statutory provisions.
Not Included in the Tour Cost
- Visas and travel insurance
- Climbing Royalty Fees and permits
- Liaison officers and helicopter rescue
- High camp food, oxygen, EPI gas
- Climbing gear, excess baggage, customs clearance
- Phone calls, laundry, extra meals or drinks, tips (Bakshish)
Any airfare taxes or surcharges will be listed separately in your booking confirmation if not included in your base price.
VARIATIONS
Considerable care has been taken to compile the information in this site but circumstances not within Karakorum Guides pakistan control may necessitate changes in itineraries, accommodation and costs in which case you will be informed as soon as possible. When it is necessary to change a hotel Karakorum Guides reserves the right to substitute accommodation of at least a similar standard. KGP cannot be held responsible for any changes which may occur and reserves the right to increase the price of any travel arrangement up to the date of payment in full (or the date of ticketing in the case of airfares). This includes adjustment for fuel surcharges, airfare increases as well as international exchange rate fluctuations. To the extent we are able to do so; we will notify you of any applicable change in price prior to you making payment in full. KGP may update these terms and conditions at anytime. Any changes to these terms and conditions made after booking will be advised to you. The current version of terms and conditions will always be found on the website www.karakorumguides.com If as a result of any of these variations either: (i) there is a material increase in the cost of your tour during the period between confirmation of your booking and the date on which you pay for your tour in full; or, (ii) you will suffer a material detriment, then you may cancel your tour, in which case KGP will refund the amount you have paid less any cancellation fees imposed by other suppliers.
HOTEL DESCRIPTIONS AND PHOTOGRAPHS
Karakorum Guides will tell you the name and address of the hotel and their standard but Pictures may not show to the clients.
INSURANCE
Karakorum Guides will provide the insurance only for our staff and local porters and KGP not responsible for the clients insurance. In respect of illness, injury, death, loss of baggage and personal item cancellation and curtailment. You may purchase a suitable external policy with specialist travel insurance provider and give us their contact with your policy numbers in case of emergency.
INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL
You are responsible for all immigration, passport, visa, health, quarantine and customs laws, regulations, orders, demands or other requirements of countries visited or transited. Official travel advice issued by the Pakistan Department of Foreign Affairs and Ministry of Interior. We recommend that you review this information both prior to making your booking and prior to departure.
UNLICENSED ENTITY DISCLAIMER
If you request Karakorum Guides to arrange for the provision of products or services by a person or company which is not licensed in accordance with any applicable law, Karakorum Guides accepts no liability (whether in contract for negligence or otherwise) for any loss or damage suffered by you as a result.
RESPONSIBILITY
Karakorum Guides Pakistan accepts bookings subject to the following conditions:
- A booking is accepted only after KGP receives the required deposit and issues the client or their travel agent confirmation invoices. The balance must be paid no later than 30 days before departure; otherwise, KGP will treat the booking as cancelled, regardless of whether a deposit is being held.
- KGP acts solely as a coordinator of tours and an agent for the owners, contractors, and suppliers of transportation, accommodation, and/or related travel services. KGP assumes no responsibility for loss or damage to baggage or property, or for injury, illness, death, or any damages or claims arising directly or indirectly from accidents, delays, transport failures, strikes, wars, uprisings, or acts of God—events beyond our control. All coupon receipts and tickets are issued subject to the terms and conditions specified by third-party suppliers, and all services are governed by the laws of the country where they are provided.
- All matters directly relating to the services provided by Karakorum Guides Pakistan will be handled in accordance with these stated responsibilities.
CANCELLATION BY US
Karakorum Guides reserves the right to cancel any Small Group Journey if minimum passenger numbers are not attained. Operation of these tours is dependent on a minimum number of persons booking on your tour. We will advise you of such cancellations no later than 30 days before departure date. However, KGP reserves the right to cancel a Small Group Journey at any time before departure due to Force Majeure (as defined below) or KGP reasonable consideration of adverse Government travel advice. With any form of cancellation, KGP will offer you alternative arrangements, and if the price of your alternative booking is a lower value than the original booking we will refund the difference to you. If you do not accept alternative arrangements we will refund all payments you have made to KGP, in the case of Force Majeure or government travel advice refunds will be less any of KGP unrecoverable costs. KGP will not be liable for any additional costs incurred by you. KGP will not be liable for any delay in, change to or cancellation of trips due to a circumstance beyond the reasonable control of KG and includes, but is not limited to, acts of God, fire, accident, interruptions to energy supplied, war or threat of war, riot, civil strife, terrorist activity, industrial dispute, disease, industrial or nuclear disaster, adverse weather conditions and strikes.
YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES
Karakorum Guides will not accept responsibility or liability for any clients who contravenes any law or regulation of any country visited. At all times the decision of the Local Guide / Tour Leader or representative will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip. You must, at all times, strictly comply with the laws, customs, and foreign exchange and drug regulations of all countries visited. Should you fail to comply with the above, or should you interfere in our reasonable opinion with the well-being of the group then the leader or company representative may order you to leave the trip immediately with no right of refund.
PRE-EXISTING MEDICAL CONDITIONS AND AGE LIMITS
Before making a booking you must advise us of any pre-existing medical condition, mobility impairment and/or disability that might reasonably be expected to increase the risk of you requiring medical attention, or that might affect the normal conduct of a trip and the enjoyment of other trip members. You may be required to provide an assessment of your medical condition from a qualified medical practitioner if requested. If you fail to adequately notify us of any pre-existing medical conditions and/or disability, we reserve the right, at our reasonable discretion, to cancel your participation in a trip at any time, including after the commencement of your trip, with no right of refund if your medical condition, mobility impairment and/or disability could be reasonably expected to affect the normal conduct of the trip and the enjoyment of other trip members.